"Madam, next time you leave the bus, I shall escort you?" It was some time after midnight and I was wandering around a sort of no man's land bus resting stop, bleery and sleepy. I had taken the opportunity of nipping to the loo before the bus rattled off into the night for the next 8 hours. But in my half-awake state I forgot to note which bus I was on. A young Indian guy with an ambitious attempt at at moustache had to lead me back. I found myself standing in the mud, in my pjs, discussing Armani (he was a fashion student). It all seems like a bit of a dream.
I slept walked to my guest house and sat in the half opened restaurant as the grey damp morning, dripping off the tables and chairs, was replaced by a solemn stream of semi-conscious travelers silent and grim in the early morning. Once my room was ready I leapt into action, showered and headed straight out to the Amber Fort.
Perhaps riding an elephant is preferable to being sprayed by one and dancing in between the feet, nose and tail as one by one they made their stately procession up the hill to the Fort bouncing red faced tourists on their backs.
The Amber Fort was established by the industrious Jai Singh II (1688-1744). The success of Jaipur was due to its willingness to form alliances with superior forces, first the Mughals and then the British, always backing the right horse. Perhaps more practical than those at the other forts for whom 'Death before Dishonor' was absolute. As a result it was was given the title of Capital of Rajasthan when the state was formed after Independence.
My exploration of the fort was cut short by the consistent presence of a very persistent young guy who attached himself to me as I entered and would not go away. My memory therefore is a kind of cat and mouse game we played in and out of the labyrinthine zenana, where the majharaja kept his hareem. Finally I admitted defeat and dejectedly went 'to ground' in an auto bound for the City Palace.
Exhausted by this time - still no sleep - I wandered, got lost in the bazaar, broke free of the heckling and retreated to the hostel tail between my legs.
Met up with some other europeans also sheltering in the cool shade of the garden and managed to find somewhere that sold beer...
After the peace of western Rajasthan, it was all a bit too much!
Off tomorrow back to Delhi, although even more chaotic, it will be like coming home...