Half a day on a bus, or 2 days on the back of a Honda with a night in a highland village drinking rice wine with the village chief... A bit of a no-brainer really. Not only did I have a chance to indulge my recently-discovered fondness for riding around on the back of motorbikes, but also a chance to some more remote parts of the highlands with a guide called Monkey. Hard to resist.
So bright and early on Sunday morning, Clio and I saddled up and vroom vroomed off into the mountains. We were amazingly lucky with the weather. After the torrential rain of the previous day, we expected it be rather damp going, but the sun shone brightly as we pootled down mountains and into valleys, stopping every so often to peer at a cinnamon tree, visit a silk factory, scramble down waterfalls or simply just to walk for a bit and regain the feeling in our legs.
Monkey and his mate Buffalo proved to be excellent guides. A real double act who teased us, told funny stories and giggle heartily at our attempts to learn Vietnamese.
We arrived at a pretty little farming village, tucked in a valley on a lake and surrounded by green rice fields, just in time to grab a beer, wade out to an upturned boat and sit and watch a beautiful sunset while the villagers fished, played football or just pottered around, smiling cheerily at us in greeting.
We had a hilarious evening together, joined by the village chief, a crazy little guy who knocked back rice whiskey, chatted away to us in Vietnamese and finally challenged Clio to a wrestling match (which she won). We then went outside to play Keepy-Uppy with everyone, we lost so bought them all ice creams. The young girls were shy but friendly and soon giggling at us two over-sized, clumsy westerners trying to play their game.
Abruptly (as it seems to happen in these remote spots) it turned 11.00pm and the power went out. Bed time. We slept on the floor of a bungalow on stilts, pigs rooting around in the mud beneath us.
Up bright and early yesterday morning for a truly beautiful ride down to Nah Trang, through green paddy fields with grazing buffalo and farmers in straw hats, up into mountains through wisps of cloud and, for a short time, along the Ho Chi Minh Trail and war-scarred hillsides. I can't really do it justice, I know my photos won't either but it was wonderful riding through the countryside in the open air, with the wind in our faces surrounded by such beauty. It will be one of my highlights of South East Asia.
We bid a sad farewell to Monkey and Buffalo when they dropped us at our guest house, we had such a good time together.
Nah Trang is a fairly major coastal town and quite a contrast to the little village of the previous night. We sampled the nightlife last night and then lay on the beach for most of today feeling sorry for ourselves. Tonight we are taking the 12 hour bus to Hoi An for a spot of shopping. Onwards and upwards.