ECUADOR, Banos, Tuesday 13th November (see below for Montanita)

Well, it seems that I have chosen well, Banos is wonderful. I am in love with it and all the people here.
Nestled in a valley, surrounded on all sides by green, rolling hills with waterfalls and hot springs in abundance, Banos is a major holiday destination for Ecuadorians as well as tourists. Its sheltered spot in the valley ensures a temperate climate all year and feels like a little bit of an Eden.
It is overshadowed by Volcano Tungurahua which smokes and sputters above the town, a grim reminder of the chaos that it has wrought on the town in the past. In 1999 the town was evacuated by the army on account of its grumbling (and killing of a tourist and guide due to its gaseous belching). The evacuation turned out to be a false alarm but the army wouldn't leave, having made themselves rather comfortable. In 2000 the inhabitants, desperate to return to their town and livelihoods, stormed the military check point and forced the army out. They still mark this day, of which they are very proud.
The town is small and has a lovely relaxed holiday feel. It has a leafy main plaza, complete with a Punta de Amore in the gardens, and a sombre, dark, gothic Basilica honouring the Virgin of the Holy Waters which they illuminate colourfully at night.

I arrived yesterday evening after my bus ride from Guayaquil. Even without passing field after field of banana plantations, I would have known I'd entered banana country when I tried to buy a bunch of small, sweet bananas from a woman selling them on the bus out of a huge sack. "Uno dollar." On receiving my dollar she dumped the entire sack of bananas on the seat next to me and stalked off the bus before I could say anything. What was I supposed to do with a whole sack of bananas?! I eyed it nervously, slid it under my seat and slunk off the bus in Banos abandoning the bananas to whoever chose to claim them. I am sure someone would.

Almost as soon as I had checked into my hostel I was swept off out to dinner and up to look at the volcano by my friendly room mates. We chugged up on the roof of a minibus and stopped to gawp as the volcano coughed up a great spurt of lava which then dribbled down the mountainside. Even our guide was impressed. We sipped local liquor overlooking Banos at night and then returned to town for a few drinks.

Today I hiked up the same hill again to see the views in daylight. I was joined for the first part of my walk by a cheerful group of school children and their teacher. They smiled and waved and a couple of them beamed up at me and bid me a very carefully pronounced "Good morning!" One little boy hurried on ahead to guide me over a stream instructing me where to step. "E ca, y e ca, y e ca... Esso! Muy bien!" He applauded once I had reached the other side safely. Sweet.
Children are often a good, honest reflection of their parents attitudes and it seems that foreigners are received warmly here. I bought a bottle of water from a smiling woman on route stopping to chat briefly to her little girl who too was smiles and giggles and delighted to have her photo taken.
I climbed on up the hill feeling warm and fuzzy after such beaming friendliness. The view was beautiful, the weather was gorgeous and the idea of sitting in hot water just didn't seem right, so I forwent the hot springs, for now, and settled myself on the pretty, sunny balcony of my hostel and languished in the sun for the rest of the afternoon. I was supposed to be relaxing after all.

Tomorrow I head on to Quito, where my room mates are now and have booked me a bed in a hostel. So reunions tomorrow night and another place to explore. Can't believe it is all nearly over...